Jack Geldard gaining the Brittle Ledges, Eiger North Face, kb . to be very accurate, but the B&W photo topo was not very useful. Although the north face of the Eiger has several routes, by far the most famous and popular is the original route – known as The route. This free topo and. Topo map · Swisstopo Grindelwald. Geology. Mountain type · Limestone. Climbing. First ascent, 11 August Easiest route, basic rock/snow/ice climb ( AD). The Eiger is a 3,metre (13, ft) mountain of the Bernese Alps, overlooking Grindelwald The two stations within the Eiger are Eigerwand ( behind the north face) and.

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The North Face of the Eiger has been a long held ambition of his, ever since he first read ‘The White Spider’ as a teenage boy. Home List of all content Newsletter. On Heckmair Route are fixed lines Hinterstoiser Traverse, etc.

The highlight of the season was still to come, though.

UKC Articles – North Face of the Eiger – Route

Since then, the north face has been climbed many times. Then the fog came down again and hid the nrth. The avalanche path basically went all the way to the bottom of the descent line.

The NordwandGerman for “north wall” or “north face,” is the north face of the Eiger also known as the Eigernordwand: We had double 60 m rope, but I think that better will be single 60 m rope for climbers who have enough experience. I never neede to use the mitts but if it had got colder they would have been handy.

Including Ice Chimney M7 in good conditions, a lot of pitons. After 30 seconds I decided to aid this: There are routes which every alpine climber want to do. Climb m to the right big Gully. When I was 20 I stepped down from the yellow La Poste bus on to a completely dark and deserted street in Grindelwald.


The year was supposed to be our big Eiger summer. My fight on the steep, gray water streak took four hours. When found in reasonable condition, the route’s main difficulties are length and commitment. Photos and Topos Click photo to view full size and see caption.

There climb chimney, groove and easy terrain to the Death Bivvy. L, reprinted in Peaks, Passes and Glaciersed. Return to Articles from or list other Destinations articles. If you haven’t filled your trousers on the easy but rather exposed Brittle Ledges, then this little horth might give you the final push. In good conditions descent took circa 3 hours to Eigergletscher. Skip to main content.

Some parties only rope up for the first time when they reach this area of the wall. This page was last edited on 16 Decemberat Oh the joy of alpinism. I just climbed facr much and too hard before the summer. Start the route at a reasonable time and climb to the Death Bivvy By far the best bivvy site on the route.

Eiger – 1938 Route North Face

We used 4 out of our five mostly for moving together on easy terrain. A one or two bivvy option.

I tried everything to fix it. Soon enough we climbed out of the shade of the North face and onto the sunny summit slopes high above. Bivvy in an appropriate place bivvying at the station itself is not allowed. I also repeated the route Hotel Supramonte in Sardinia, Italy, with Alexandra Taistra, where I missed redpointing the entire climb by just one pitch.

While descending, Kurz could not get the knot to pass through his carabiner. Mich and I spent three and a half days on the climb and each redpointed the whole route. Related items Eiger west face on skis We also each carried a belay jacket.


Eiger : N Face – Heckmair Route –

Renowned for bad weather, bad rock and bad gear, the face is nick-named ‘Mordwand’, a play on the German name of Nordwand North face that means simply ‘death wall’. The guides were not able to pass an unclimbable overhang that separated them from Kurz.

Fwce is described well in the following route topo. Which is great for him, but not so nice for Jack ‘desk jockey’ Geldard when he is trying to keep up on long snow slopes To summit, you need minutes of climbing. I tried to scan the featureless sky above and ahead topi me to try and make out even the faintest outlines of the mythical mountain but thoughts quickly turned to finding somewhere to bivy for the night. The summit is visible behind and to the left. Given the gear they had inthis may not have been far from the truth.

The White Spider was just as we imagined, peppered with stones and generally quite a scary place to be, so we climbed it without stopping and headed fsce toward the Quartz Crack.

Beginning in the summer ofRobert Jasper and I fought another five seasons to completely free the Japanese Direttissima, finally succeeding in One of the guides, climbing on another’s shoulders, was able to touch the tip of Kurz’s crampons with his ice-axe fxce could not reach higher. That was as close as I got to the face on my first visit – I had no intention of ever going near it and was busy still trying to come to grips with the basics of alpinism.